The bigger the better @letitgo!!
Although big waves = more chance of losing control of your board and going down completley. Like today I belly wacked while trying to get a giant wave, would of been sweet if I didn't lose my footing.
Small waves are ok and obviously good for younger people and newbies but the big ones are the wants you want!! Some small ones you just can't surf, they aren't really waves, just ripples
So many times though, I've paddled out, waited forever for a big wave, and then all of sudden there's one at my feet and I haven't turned around in time and the giant wave has just taken me sideways and smashed me.
- Less addicted to technology
- My patience is getting heaps better, with people and things.
- More confident
- Something healthy to think about
- Something to do when things get tough
- Made friends
- Makes me feel pretty good!!
I could go on and on all day
Hey @j95 that's really great you've gotten into surfing, I think it's one of the prime forms of meditation in a weird way!
How close are you to buying that board now?
Last year I got quite into it, I actually sucked - couldn't stand up at all. But I used to just paddle out and chill for ages; it was incredibly calming, and you're right it helps with patience!
You should give this article about surfing and mental health a read
It helps with patience because you have to wait for the waves, while you're beginning the constant falling off and getting dunked is frustrating and when you're just in the shallows and there's lots of people who sometimes get in the way and you just want to tell them to look behind them haha, so yeah patience helps a lot!
I definitely will.
I reallt just love it. The other day I paddled out sooooo far and there was this giant wave coming and I fell off my board and I was like oh no i cannot stand up at all, like this is super super deep and couldnt get back on my board in time, omg that was terrifying and embarrassing!
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